The first skincare ingredient I emphasize for every client to incorporate into their regimen is vitamin C. As early as your twenties, you’ll start to see the loss of your skin’s natural antioxidant defense systems, leading to oxidative stress. Oxidative stress occurs when too many unstable molecules (free radicals) are present in the body and is the primary cause of premature skin aging, usually beginning around age 25. We can turn to vitamin C as a potent antioxidant that helps neutralize these free radicals throughout the body and the skin, our largest organ.
Vitamin C is not naturally synthesized by our bodies, so it’s necessary to add it naturally into our daily diet, take in supplement form, or apply it topically. Topical vitamin C will provide you the maximum benefit, as only a limited amount actually makes its way into our system when taken orally. I’ll take you through all the benefits this dynamic ingredient has to offer, what formulation is right for you, and how you can incorporate it easily into your daily skincare routine with some of my top product choices.
BENEFITS OF VITAMIN C
So, what are the effects of vitamin C on the skin? Vitamin C is considered to be the #1 anti-aging antioxidant and anti-inflammatory that reduces the signs of extrinsic aging, all while hydrating and brightening the skin, and improving overall skin health.
Inflammation and oxidation, caused by free radicals, are the leading causes of extrinsic aging. They lead to damaged and diminished collagen levels that leave you with rough skin texture and contribute to uneven pigmentation, dark spots, and deepening lines.
Vitamin C protects and helps boost your collagen production to maintain healthy skin density and elasticity. Skin with good density will be firmer with fewer lines and wrinkles.
Vitamin C also helps reverse visible sun damage with its brightening effects. But, it also neutralizes damage caused by UVA/UVB rays by inhibiting melanin production—and with regular use, can prevent those pesky dark spots from forming in the first place.
What’s the bottom line? Vitamin C is an all-star ingredient that contributes to many skin benefits, including: hydration, evening out skin tone, brightening, softening fine lines and wrinkles, and healing your skin barrier.
WHAT FORM OF VITAMIN C IS RIGHT FOR ME?
There are many derivatives of vitamin C found in skincare. Understanding the different types can help you choose the best one for your skin. I’ve outlined the most common forms found in skincare products, along with some superstar products that are on the top of my list.
L-ascorbic Acid
L-ascorbic acid is one of the most common forms of vitamin C found in skincare. Due to its strong exfoliating properties, this type of vitamin C tends to be most recommended for hyperpigmentation or post-acne dark spots, otherwise known as PIH. However, if your skin is sensitive to vitamin C, you are likely sensitive to ascorbic acid, so choosing another form of vitamin C will be best for you. This powerful form of vitamin C is not recommended for those with rosacea or melasma, unless in small concentrations, and is also not suitable for those with milia or KP.
Because this form of vitamin C is the least stable, look for formulas in a dark or opaque bottle with an airless pump to prevent oxidation and discoloration. Also, try to find products stabilized with ferulic acid or vitamin E.
Derivatives of ascorbic acid
- Ascorbic acid without the L should be avoided as it is not chirally correct and will irritate the skin.
- Ascorbyl glucoside is a more gentle microencapsulated form of ascorbic acid that provides sustained release to prevent oxidation throughout the day. After absorption, it is converted to pure vitamin C in the body.
- Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble, highly bioavailable form of ascorbic acid that is more easily absorbed into the skin.
- Ethyl ascorbic acid is a highly stable derivative of vitamin C that is gentle and non-irritating, and reduces inflammation. Soluble in both water and oil.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (BV-OSC)
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a concentrated form of the component of vitamin C that increases collagen synthesis. It is a highly stable active vitamin C that penetrates deeper into the skin and improves synthesis 50% better than L-ascorbic acid. This oil-soluble form of C is excellent for those with dry skin and uneven pigmentation or dark spots. Over-drying the skin can contribute to further hyperpigmentation.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
MAP is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C and is safe for dry and sensitive skin types. I love that MAP prevents oxidation on the skin leading to fewer blackheads! MAP is one of the few vitamin C forms that plays friendly with niacinamide if you are acne prone and has great brightening properties as well. This water-soluble form of vitamin C is best in a base of water or hyaluronic acid.
MY TOP PRODUCT COMBINATIONS FOR MAXIMUM RESULTS
- Have dark spots? Try a combo of Rhonda Allison Peptide Bright-C (20% L-ascorbic acid) + Sorella Lemon Lightening Serum
- Are you blemish prone? C2S Balancing Serum (ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate) + BiON Oil Free Moisturizing Gel (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamin E) will be the combo for you
- Brighten up your eye area by pairing IS Clinical C Eye Serum Advance+(L-ascorbic acid) + Tizo Eye Renewal SPF20 (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)
- To smooth texture and shrink pores check out Hale & Hush Rare C serum (ethyl ascorbic acid) + Skin Script Citrus-C Nourishing Cream (tetreahexyldecyl ascorbate)
- Have loss of firmness and other menopausal side effects? Reach for Emepelle Serum (ethyl ascorbic acid, ferulic acid)+ HOP+ PLLA H2 Promoter Repair Cell Moisturizer
HOW TO INCORPORATE VITAMIN C INTO YOUR REGIMEN
As you can see, vitamin C can be found in a wide variety of skincare products, including cleansers, moisturizers, toners, serums and sunscreens. If you can only choose one product to start out with, you will find you get the most bang for your buck with serums, as they are more concentrated and easily absorbed into the skin.
It is definitely okay to use vitamin C daily. While it can be added to both your AM and PM skincare routine, it is especially important to add antioxidant support first thing in the morning—be sure to follow up with your favorite SPF. If you are new to incorporating vitamin C products into your routine, start with lower levels of concentration a few times per week and work your way up to gauge sensitivity. Or, even try a patch test if you’ve previously experienced sensitivity. As always, give any new routine 6-12 weeks to start seeing the maximum benefits.
Looking for the perfect way to incorporate this almighty antioxidant into one power-packed routine? Check out Jeana’s Mega C Brightening Facial!
Unsure where to start? Reach out for a free skincare checkup, and our licensed estheticians will optimize your routine for the best results. We’ll be here every step of the way!
