While many of us in middle age miss the wrinkle-free complexions of our youth, face wrinkles are a simple fact of life. While there are invasive techniques such as injectables and facelift surgeries that can remove wrinkles, they tend to distort the face that the world has come to know you by. Fortunately, once you understand the different types of wrinkles, you can develop strategies to minimize the appearance of wrinkles without changing the uniqueness of your wonderful face!
WRINKLE TYPE 1: DYNAMIC WRINKLES & EXPRESSION LINES
These are the type of wrinkles that I think of as “wonder lines” because they remind me of the wonder of the human face and how incredibly expressive it is, conveying feelings, opinions, emotions, and communications in a variety of facial expressions. Over time, as we use our faces to communicate, we develop smile lines, furrows, and frown lines. Mostly found on the forehead and around the eyes and mouth, expression lines say a lot about us!
SOLUTION: WRINKLE TREATMENTS THAT SOFTEN AND RELAX MUSCLES AND FASCIA
- To reduce dynamic expression lines, soften the fascia and the facial muscles underneath those lines with relaxing serums and self-directed fascia massage.
- Look for serums that contain extracts or neuropeptides that soften muscle contractions.
- Acmella oleracea extract is a natural muscle relaxant that helps reduce expression lines and wrinkles.
- Peptide-based anti-wrinkle serums relax the tiny facial muscles under the skin and are generally considered a safe alternative to Botox injections. While the results are more subtle than what you might expect from an invasive procedure, it is a very effective way to soften fine lines, crow’s feet, and wrinkles. Peptides can also stimulate collagen production.
My favorite serums that contain wrinkle relaxing neuropeptides:
- Le Mieux TGF B Booster Serum
- My go-to for fascia release is the Anma (Awn-Mah) massage tool. This tool utilizes an ancient Japanese massage technique called Gua Sha to increase lymphatic drainage and release facial tension. Chronic fascia tension leads to the deepening of expression lines. By reducing that tension, the Anma helps slow the process of expression lines becoming permanent wrinkles.
WRINKLE TYPE 2: DEHYDRATION LINES & WRINKLES
After air, water is the essential need of our bodies. Especially when it comes to the skin. Insufficient water intake causes the skin to appear thinner, looser, and crepey. Fragile skin that looks lifeless, saggy, or tired is often a symptom of dehydration. Enlarged pores may also indicate dehydration. Dehydration wrinkling tends to be superficial: They fluctuate from day-to-day depending on your water intake and skincare routine.
SOLUTION: HYDRATE SKIN INSIDE AND OUT
Dehydration lines are the easiest wrinkles to reverse.
- Hydrate from the inside/out, by drinking more water. For optimal health, our bodies require a constant supply of fresh, clean water. As a rule of thumb, drink one-half of your weight in ounces and adjust from there. Drink an extra 8 ounces for every dehydrating, caffeinated, sugary or alcoholic drink you consume. When adequately hydrated, not only will you look more youthful, but you’ll feel younger too!
- Hydrate from the outside/in, by adding hydration boosting ingredients to your skincare routine. Choose a hydrating serum or gel with a base of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring molecule that can bind water to your skin. Also, look for ingredients such as vitamin C, glycerin, aloe, honey, lactic acid, and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier and restore the skin’s moisture balance. The key is to improve the water content to the superficial layers of your skin without adding unnecessary oils. An excellent source of ceramides and hyaluronic acid for aging skin is Le Mieux Collagen Peptide Serum. Blemish-prone skin types love Sorella Apothecary Pomegranate Acai Antioxidant Serum, which contains complex forms of vitamin C, aloe, and hyaluronic acid.
WRINKLE TYPE 3: SUN DAMAGE-INDUCED PREMATURE AGING
The sun is, by far, the number one cause of premature aging. Sun exposure triggers the release of collagenase in our bodies, which eats away our natural collagen layer. Without collagen, our skin looks thin and crepey. Due to the thinning of the collagen layer, we also begin to see capillaries. Unlike dehydration lines, sun damage-induced premature aging is difficult to reverse.
SOLUTION: PROTECT SKIN WHILE INCREASING ELASTIN AND COLLAGEN
- With sun-damaged skin, the priority is to protect the skin from further damage. The best sun protection is to wear non-chemical SPF every day, even when you do not plan to be outdoors. Damaged skin is sensitive to even radiant light through windows and blue light from monitors and devices. Two of my favorite non-chemical sunscreens are Sorella Quench & Protect and AOS Prime & Protect.
- Wear an antioxidant serum daily. Possibly the most potent antioxidant serum that I offer is Sorella Pomegranate Acai Antioxidant Serum. This powerhouse serum is excellent for all skin types, including acne-prone and contains: the most advanced forms of vitamin C available that do not oxidize or cause milia, 20% blend of A, C & E, and pomegranate and acai berry which is rich in antioxidants and omega fatty acids.
- Add bakuchiol to your evening routine. Similar to retinol or retinoids, but without the chance of peeling, bakuchiol is a plant compound that stimulates collagen, rebuilds the skin, and controls oil.
- I love the combination of bakuchiol and stem cells found in the AnteAge System.
WRINKLE TYPE 4: STATIC WRINKLES & GRAVITATIONAL FOLDS
True wrinkles are part of the natural aging process. Time and earth’s gravity work together: Over time, the elastin and collagen in the layers of our skin is diminished. The skin is left defenseless to the relentless effects of gravity. Hormone changes with the onset of menopause are also a contributing factor. As our estrogen levels decline, expression lines begin to deepen into static wrinkles.
Like sun-damaged skin, the loss of collagen and the loss of elasticity, due to natural aging, is challenging to reverse. Interestingly, research and personal experience show that those that carry a few extra pounds in their later years have plumper skin and show fewer folds. This may be because we store estrogen in our fat cells and estrogen.
SOLUTION: INCREASE CELL RENEWAL, ELASTIN, AND COLLAGEN
Cell Regenerating Serums
- Increase cell renewal by giving your skin a boost of stem cell cytokines. These signaling proteins and growth factors support the skin’s natural regenerative process at the cellular level. After much research and testing, I recommend AnteAge Serum & Accelerator or NeoGensisis Recovery and Booster Serums.
Lifting Serums
- Combine growth factors and cytokines with lifting and firming serums. For example, Nelly De Vuyst Firming Serum redefines a sagging facial contour and minimizes large or drooping pores. I like to mix this with two drops of NeoGensis Booster Serum in the morning. Apply two drops of NeoGenesis Recovery Serum in the evening.
TOOLS TO UP YOUR GAME
If you’ve been on this planet for a while, it’s time to step up your skincare routine with a few essential tools:
- The first tool to have on hand is the My Skin Buddy. This tool boosts cleansing and serum penetration, thus helping you to get the most benefit from your beautiful serums.
- Second, I recommend the Time Master Pro. Utilizing ultrasound and LED to strengthen, lift, and plump the surface of the skin. You can feel your skin tightening as you use it. Best of all, it does not require daily use. The recommendation is to limit use to twice weekly for 10 minutes. I love what this device does for my nasolabial folds and upper lip!
- The next tool to add to your arsenal is for those that are committed to a facial workout. The Clareblend Mini utilizes microcurrent to tone and firm lax muscles. It visibly firms the skin and should be used three times per week. The combined result of toning the facial muscles underneath and then strengthening the surface of the skin is immediate, visible results!
